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The purpose of this article is to guide you on how to properly bind a document using a thermal binding machine. If you have access to 5 or 6 thermal binding covers, follow through these binding instructions. If not, read through the material and try binding some documents later.

After ensuring that your machine is plugged in and turned on select a smaller thermal binding cover i.e. 1/16″, 1/8″ or 1/4″ and the approximate amount of paper needed to fit into the cover. In normal use, the operator will have a document of “x” number of sheets, which will then determine the proper size of thermal cover to use. The easiest way to do this is to place the paper, indexes, etc. to be bound flat on a table and measure the thickness of the stack with a ruler. Choose a cover that meets that measurement. i.e. if you have a 1/4″ stack of paper, you would use a 1/4″ thermal binding cover. If you are in between sizes, go to the next largest size.

1. To reduce static electricity that builds up between sheets run off a copier, the paper to be bound needs to be fanned. Take a stack of paper, and practice fanning using the following technique:
-Grasp the sheets on both sides, holding them fairly loose.
-Bend the sheets as in the following diagram. While bent, exert pressure on the paper with your thumbs and fingers to gain a firm grip where the sheets cannot move.
-While maintaining pressure on the sheets, straighten out the stack of paper. This will bow the sheets so that there is air space between sheets. After air has been allowed into the sheets, release your grasp on the sheets as you jog them onto a flat, level surface. This is called fanning the paper. It is usually not necessary unless the paper has just come off a copier, where the pages contain a large amount of static electricity.
-Remember, it is the binding edge of the sheets which must be evenly jogged for a secure bind.

2. Place the thermal binding cover in your left hand (if you are right handed), and allow it to slightly fall open to create what looks like a wide V. Insert the fanned sheets into your scored thermal binding cover (make sure that you grasp the sheets tightly to maintain the uniform jogged edge). The sheets should be centered within the cover and placed on the adhesive backbone. Close the cover around the sheets. The first and last sheets should not stick up higher than the other pages. If you have uneven pages, take all the sheets out of the cover, rejog them and insert them back into the cover.

3. Next, place the document (spine side down) so the edge of the thermal cover is at the right hand side of the binding slot. The binding machine should automatically start and depending on the size of your document should determine the length of the bind time.

4. When you remove the bound document, tap the backbone on the table to help set the adhesive, and set the document(s) on the cooling stand to maintain the square backbone during curing. Make sure the document(s) are placed squarely on the cooling stand so that the backbone remains square during the curing process. This will provide the most professional looking finished product.

5. The document must cool before it can be used. It should remain on the stand for 3 to 5 minues. This time period varies depending on the thickness of the thermal binding cover. Obviously, a 1/16″ thick document will cool faster than a 2″ document. Ultimately, any thermal cover, regardless of size, will have reached full binding strength once the backbone is cool to the touch (approximately 15 minutes).

Jeff McRitchie is the designer and Director of Marketing for MyBinding.com. He has written over 100 articles on binding machines, binding covers, 3-ring binders and more.

Fixed die modular bindidng punches are designed for users who have outgrown a combo binding machine but don’t need the ability to punch muliple hole patterns. These punches are designed for higher volumes of punching and for use with a stand alone finsher. Here are some simple directions for using a modular comb punch.

Prior to punching your document, determine the number of holes required for the document (depends on the side of the document that is to be bound - 11″ edge requires 19 holes - 8 1/2″ edge requires 15 holes).

1. Deselect the Die Pins you do not want to punch by lifting the Selector Pin Lid and pulling the pins up.

2. Set the Depth-of-Punch Lever (on the left side of the punch) to either under or over 9/16″. This refers to the diameter of the comb element being used. Plastic binding is the only bind style that uses this measure, and its main purpose is to adjust the margin from the edge of the paper to the holes being punched so the element is properly filled. If the margin is punched too deep into the paper for a small element (i.e. 1/4″), the pages will not open or turn easily because there is not enough room inside the element. Conversely, if the margin is punched too shallow for a large document (i.e. 1/2″), the pages could tear out if the document was roughly handled or dropped.

3. Using a test lift of paper (or covers if using oversize covers), insert the sheets into the Punch Throat, moving them until they are flush against the Edge Guide and all the way into the bottom of the Punch Throat. Hold the sheets in place with one hand.

4. To punch, press the Punch Button or Foot Pedal.

5. Now, take one sheet of the punched material and fold it in half to check for hole alignment. If it is squared you’re ready to continue punching the document.

6. When the punching is complete, remember to lift the front lid up, remove the chip tray, and trash the debris.

Note: As mentioned earlier, Comb Binding frequently uses oversize covers. This simply means the covers are manufactured 11-1/4″ X 8-3/4″ (instead of 11″ x 8-1/2″), leaving an 1/8th inch margin at the top and bottom of the document and a 1/4″ excess margin on the unbound 11″ side of the document. This is to prevent dog-earing of the material contained within the covers of the document. It also makes the document look neater, as the pages do not stick out when the element moves in the punched holes. This does not happen with our other bind styles, as the holes are smaller, and there is less movement of the binding element.

What this means to you, is that the Edge Guide must be reset to “center” the holes of the oversize cover. Follow the same steps for setting the Edge Guide and checking the setting that you just completed. If you were punching a number of documents using oversize covers, you would set the Edge Guide for the paper, punching all the paper - then set the Edge Guide for the covers and punch all the covers.

Both Wire Binding and Coil Binding are set up using steps 1 through 5 - since the covers are flush cut with the paper (no oversize), there is no need to reset the Edge Guide.

Jeff McRitchie is the designer and Director of Marketing for MyBinding.com. He has written over 100 articles on binding machines, laminators, binding supplies and more.

If you have ever tried to use a clear cover with a Unibind SteelBack binding spine you probably discovered the hard way that they don’t work well together. Unfortunately the heat from the Unibind machine will warp or sometimes even melt the clear cover. Obviously this doesn’t leave you with the beautiful finished presentation that you want. This article is designed to help you understand what types of covers you can and cannot use with your Unibind SteelBack spines.

1. Clear Binding Covers: Most 5mil, 7mil or 10mil standard clear covers are not compatible with your Unibind binding machine. The heat from the binding machine will ruin the cover and your document. However, special heat resistant clear binding covers are available for use with Unibind and Fastback binding systems. These heat resistant clear binding covers are made from a different material that can withstand higher temperatures.

2. Vinyl Binding Covers: True vinyl binding covers such as imperial vinyl covers are NOT compatible with your Unibind system. The heat from the system will melt these covers. This is only true for covers made from actual “vinyl”. Some individuals call poly covers which are actually plastic vinyl covers. As you can see below poly covers are compatible with Unibind spines.

3. Poly Binding Covers: Nearly all poly binding covers should be fully compatible with your Unibind system. However, if you have a particular style of poly cover that you are thinking about using it is always a good idea to try a sample in your Unibind machine to make sure that it won’t melt or warp. Generally speaking, the heavier the cover the better chance that it will work properly in the machine.

4. Regency Leatherette Covers: All regency composition leatherette binding covers are fully compatible with the heat from your Unibind system. These covers are available in approximately ten different colors and give your documents an elegant look and feel with a leatherette finish.

5. Paper Covers: Generally speaking paper covers are fully compatible with the Unibind System. Many users like to use linen weave binding covers along with steelback spines or you might try using a metallics cover to co-ordinate with your aluminum SteelBack spine.

This covers most of the different categories of covers that are available on the market. However, if you have a question about a particular type of binding cover it never hurts to try a sample in your machine to see how it reacts.

Jeff McRitchie is the designer and Director of Marketing for MyBinding.com. He has written over 100 articles on Binding Machines, Unibind Equipment, Unibind Supplies, Binding Supplies, Binding Covers, Laminators, Laminating Pouches, Laminating Roll Film, Paper Shredders and more

Strip Binding is a professional, attractive and secure means of assembling loose, written communications into professionally-bound documents. Strip binding can be accomplished via two methods; namely, SureBind and VeloBind. The end resulting product looks identical; however, there are subtle differences in the mechanical parts of the elements. Velobind is the forerunner of strip binding, having been developed in 1960. After GBC acquired Velobind, they incorporated the strip binding method into the GBC line, creating numerous other benefits of the product. VeloBind dies can still be purchased for the System Three Pro, MagnaPunch and AP-2. However, SureBind is the lead strip binding product offered by GBC / Ibico.

SureBind is strip binding with the additional benefit of working in conjunction with GBC Plastic Binding elements, which are on 9/16″ centers. The major benefit is that someone already using a GBC Plastic Binding system can take a punched document and bind it with SureBind for a different look or for use with GBC’s boardroom-quality hard cases. In addition, using the strip binding method while punching with GBC Plastic binding increases the Plastic Comb binding punching productivity by 30 to 50%.

The main differences between SureBind and Velobind strips are:

-SureBind combs have 10 pins, while Velobind combs have 11 pins with corresponding holes in the receiver strips.
-SureBind pins are slightly offset to fit snugly into the holes of a plastic binding-punched documents. This maintains the integrity of the bind, preventing shifting around inside the larger binding holes. Velobind pins are spaced evenly along the strip.
-SureBind combs and strips are slightly wider than Velobind so that the GBC rectangular holes are completely covered.

Strip binding uses tamper resistant plastic strips to lock proposals, briefs, litigation, materials, forecasts, etc. (any loose papers up to 3″ thick - that’s 750 sheets of 20lb bond paper!) into place. This system offers the ultimate in security for a customer’s bound documents. No unauthorized additions or deletions can be made. This unique hot knife process securely binds documents by heat riveting two plastic strips together. This permanent bind is more secure than comb binding, wire binding, coil binding or any other binding style on the market.

SureBind and Velobind strips offer the maximum in versatility, with minimum inventory requirements (only three different-sized strips bind documents from 2 pages to 750 pages). The finished document is easy to mail, file and store because of the compact nature of the strip. A strip bound document can be finished in either soft, flush cut covers or boardroom-quality hard covers.

Jeff McRitchie is the designer and Director of Marketing for MyBinding.com. He has written over 100 articles on binding machines, binding supplies and other related topics.

More than 90% of the spiral bound documents that you see on the market are bound with 4:1 pitch colorcoil binding. However, there are actually several different pitches of coil available for spiral binding. Each of these pitches have specific applications for which they are best suited. This article will provide a quick overview of the major different options for spiral coil hole patterns and their applications.

4:1 pitch color coil is the most commonly used pattern for document and presentation binding. This spiral binding hole pattern has four holes per inch and is fully compatible with 6mm pitch supplies (primarily used overseas). Four to one pitch color coil binding is available in sizes from 6mm to 50mm. This type of coil binding is the most commonly available spiral binding option and is designed for use with the majority of the smaller spiral binding machines on the market. This coil binding is easy to work with binding books up to 1 inch thick, however, inserting 4:1 pitch coils on books greater than one inch can be difficult and time consuming.

5:1 pitch coil is the second most commonly used pattern for document and presentation binding. This uses a hole pattern with five holes per inch and is also referred to as 5mm coil binding. The tighter spiral of this coil provides a distinctive look and is preferred by some individuals. One common misconception about 5:1 coil is that it provides a stronger more secure bind than 4:1 coil. This is simply NOT true. The fact that the 5:1 hole pattern places holes closer together than 4:1 makes it easier to tear the pages out on these documents. Still, the tighter spiral binding of the 5:1 pattern provides a distinctive look that some individuals prefer when binding their documents.

3:1 pitch spiral binding is the third most commonly used pattern for document and presentation binding. With three holes per inch, this spiral coil is compatible with both the GBC ProClick and the 3:1 wire binding hole patterns. It is primarily used by individuals who already have a 3:1 punch and wish to add the capability to bind coil documents. However, large auto punches and inline punches for photocopiers are sometimes sold with a 3:1 pitch die. While providing a look similar to its 4:1 counterpart, 3:1 coil binding is slightly easier to insert since it has less holes to spin through.

The three pitches discussed above are the most commonly used pitches for coil binding. However, coil binding can be special ordered in several other unique pitches. For instance, .400 pitch binding is designed for a hole pattern that has 2.5 holes per inch. This pitch of binding is only available in diameters greater than 20mm or 3/4″ and is available in sizes up to 56mm or 2.25″. However, the filament size of this coil binding is larger than is normally found on other pitches of coil binding, making it more rigid making it easier to insert on larger diameter books. .400 coil is most often used along with a 2:1 pitch wire hole pattern. However, a few companies make specialty dies specifically designed for this pitch of coil binding.

Jeff McRitchie is the designer and Director of Marketing for MyBinding.com. He has written over 100 articles on binding supplies, binding covers, 3-ring binders and more.

One of the things that users like the most about GBC Velobind / SureBind strip binding systems is their security. Law offices, government agencies and accountants choose this binding style because it is permanent and tamper resistant. However, the security that these binding systems provide can become a problem if you ever need to add or delete pages from your document. For this reason, GBC has developed a Velobind / SureBind debinder tool. This specialized tool is equipped with a razor blade that helps you to safely remove the binding strips from your documents. Here are five simple steps to help you use your Velobind Debinder tool:

1. Place the document face down on a surface. The Velobind strip should be at your right with the formed rivet heads up.

2. Holding the document in place with the left hand and using the debinder with the right hand, insert the blade between the strip and the document cover. Make certain that the Debinder tool is snug against the right edge of the document to provide shearing leverage. Pull the Velobind Debinder tool towards you until it contacts the first stud.

3. With the debindder snug against the right side of the document and continuing to pull towards you, swing the handle of the Debinder to the right, away from the document. This automatically shears the first stud.

4. Move the Debinder to the next stud, swing to shear, pull to the next stud, swing to shear, pull to the next stud and so on. For rapid debinding, the Debinder can be pulled toward the user in one continuous motion after the first stud has been sheared. This does require a fairly strong hand, and extreme caution should be used with this method to avoid tearing the coverstock.

5. Remove the plastic strips, and debinding is complete. If you need to rebind the document you will need to use a new binding strip since the old one has been cut.

Attempting to Debind GBC Velobind and Surebind documents without the GBC Velobind Debinder tool can be very dangerous because such a sharp blade is required. If you have a Velobind machine you should definitely consider owning a Debinder tool for your office. However, it is important to note that this tool is not designed for use with 4 pin or 6 pin Velobind Strips which are Recloseable and can be reused.

Jeff McRitchie is the designer and Director of Marketing for MyBinding.com. He has written over 100 articles on binding machines, binding supplies and related topics.

Color coil binding (also known as Spiral, CoilBind, plastic coil binding) is one of the most popular and fastest growing of all binding styles. Documents bound in this manner lay flat and the pages can turn 360 degrees around the flexible pvc spine. Coil binding is fast and easy, and offers a wide variety of colors to choose from.

1. Select the proper size of color coil element
- As with other spiral coil styles, your provider should be able to give you suggestions for the appropriate size of coil to match your document.
- It is important to not use a coil binding that is too small for your document as production time, appearance, and the functionality of the document will be greatly affected.
- Appearance is always a good indicator of the fit.
- Coil is available in a variety of pitches; make sure to match your pitch to your punch.
- The most common pitch is 4:1 (or 4 holes per inch)
- Also available is 5:1 and 6mm, 3:1 is a much less common pitch

2. Starting the Color Coil Binding
- Many spiral binding machines have a spine forming channel, this is a useful feature to help create the contours to aid in the initial insertion of the spiral coil.
- Begin to spin the coil onto the punched document by hand. It is a good idea to spin the binding on at least an inch.
- After the binding is started, hold it near the rubber rollers. Apply gentle pressure to the coil binding against the roller.

3. Crimping the spiral element
- When the coil is spun onto the document, the excess element needs to be cut and crimped using cut and crimp pliers.
- When using the cut/crimp pliers, always use them in your right hand with your thumb next to the red dot.
- Make sure that the prongs on the cut/crimp pliers are in contact with the coil and squeeze. This will cut of the excess and fold the coil binding over to keep it from uncoiling.

Trouble shooting:

The Spiral coil is not inserting into the document
- Make sure that the pitch of the binding supplies matches the pitch of the holes.
- The Coil is too small for document.
- Large diameter coil bindings (such as 1″ and above) are difficult to insert in the best of conditions. Try an oval hole punch.
Coil binding not folding over when cut
- Make sure that the cut/crimp pliers are in your right hand with the dot facing up. If not the pliers will cut and crimp the section of coil binding that you want to cut off!
- Make sure that both of the prongs of the cut/crimp pliers make contact with the coil binding. This can be somewhat difficult on 6mm and 7mm coil bindings due to the small diameter.

Notes and suggestions:

- Auto cutter/crimpers are available in single or double configurations. They can be tedious to set up, but save a lot of time for longer production runs.

-If possible, do not use coil bindings for documents over 1″ thick. The document does not function the way that coil binding is intended to. The increased thickness of the binding and the weight of the book cause the pages not turn as freely.

-Another common configuration of a coil binding inserter is a wheel. The wheel can be faster for experienced users, but it is more difficult to learn.
Smaller volume users typically have more success with the roller style of inserter.

-Coil binding is sold by the inch, so it is possible to get coil binding in 9″ lengths for top spines and eliminate waste, or 18″ lengths for 11 x 17 documents.

-Coil binding is the best method of binding when you have non-standard spine size needs.

-Coil binding is available in over 60 colors, by far the most of any binding style

Jeff McRitchie is the designer and Director of Marketing for MyBinding.com. He has written over 100 articles on binding supplies, binding covers, 3-ring binders and more.